Monday, March 29, 2010

"How to Tell a True War Story"

How do you generalize?
War is hell, but that’s not the half of it, because war is also mystery and terror and
adventure and courage and discovery and holiness and pity and despair and longing and love.
War is nasty; war is fun. War is thrilling; war is drudgery. War makes you a man; war makes you
dead.
The truths are contradictory. It can be argued, for instance, that war is grotesque. But in
truth war is also beauty. For all its horror, you can’t help but gape at the awful majesty of combat.
You stare out at tracer rounds unwinding through the dark like brilliant red ribbons. You crouch
in ambush as a cool, impassive moon rises over the nighttime paddies. You admire the fluid
symmetries of troops on the move, the harmonies of sound and shape and proportion, the great
sheets of metal-fire streaming down from a gunship, the illumination rounds, the white
phosphorous, the purply black glow of napalm, the rocket’s red glare. It’s not pretty, exactly. It’s
astonishing. It fills the eye. It commands you. You hate it, yes, but your eyes do not. Like a killer
forest fire, like cancer under a microscope, any battle or bombing raid or artillery barrage has the
aesthetic purity of absolute moral indifference—a powerful, implacable beauty—and a true war
story will tell the truth about this, though the truth is ugly.
To generalize about war is like generalizing about peace. Almost everything is true.
Almost nothing is true. At its core, perhaps, war is just another name for death, and yet any
soldier will tell you, if he tells the truth, that proximity to death brings with it a corresponding
proximity to life. After a fire fight, there is always the immense pleasure of aliveness. The trees
are alive. The grass, the soil—everything. All around you things are purely living, and you
among them, and the aliveness makes you tremble. You feel an intense, out-of-the-skin
awareness of your living self—your truest self, the human being you want to be and then become
by the force of wanting it. In the midst of evil you want to be a good man. You want decency.
You want justice and courtesy and human concord, things you never knew you wanted. There is a
kind of largeness to it; a kind of godliness. Though it’s odd, you’re never more alive than when
you’re almost dead. You recognize what’s valuable. Freshly, as if for the first time, you love
what’s best in yourself and in the world, all that might be lost. At the hour of dusk you sit at your
foxhole and look out on a wide river turning pinkish red, and at the mountains beyond, and
although in the morning you must cross the river and go into the mountains and do terrible things
and maybe die, even so, you find yourself studying the fine colors on the river, you feel wonder
and awe at the setting of the sun, and you are filled with a hard, aching love for how the world
could be and always should be, but now is not.

Think about this, I just wrote an essay about contrast in this piece for English Class - you cannot appreciate light without darkness, nor love without solitude.  

P.S.
Mom, Dad, and Serena thank you so very much for all the birthday gifts!  I received the final two packages today, the one with the DVD and the clothes, granola, and so many other random things :)  I especially appreciated the lilacs from outside my window, I can imagine them in bloom, and their scent accompanies many beautiful memories at home.  

Palm Sunday

                Arms outstretched, the wind at my back, standing on the edge of the outcropping, the sunset sinking in glowing splendor, as the moon rises over the opposite horizon, shining silvery white in the midnight black sky, only the brightest stars barely visible, yet there hangs Orion’s belt.  The lights of Mostar begin to flicker on, and streets are outlined by the pinpricks of light.  The school stands like a stripped fortress in the middle, Susac’s blue roof off on black hill, the futbal stadium, the park, the old bank, the train station off on the other side, and the turquoise Neretva flowing beneath the bridges.  This is Mostar, this is my home.
                I walked to the cross with Mirwais this evening, quite spontaneously, which made it even more of an adventure.  As soon as I arrived home from MUN he yelled out the window, “Hilary we’re going to the cross” and I couldn’t argue with that.  We spend so much time looking up at the cross each day, yet the moments are rare to reverse the situation and stare down at the city.  Each time I try to memorize the winding river, the buildings, and communist bloc apartment buildings, and the streets as they intersect networking across the town. 
                The feeling as we walked up there, and then stood gazing out at the city in the foreground and the mountains surrounding the basin, the smell of the wind and the occasional faint aroma of flowers, combined reminded me of so many places and times throughout life.  It was as if all my wonderful memories like this, a combination of walking, wind, and sunset were compounded upon each other and the smiles on our faces could not go away.
          Flinging my arms wide, the wind almost swept me off my feet, and I couldn't help but sing praise.
Songs of the Night:
Shaked’s playing “Hey Juliet” right now J
Fireflies
I’m Yours – Jason Mraz
Wonderwall – Oasis
Sweet Home Alabama
(the last three performed by Schirin, Misha, and Dino with the school band at Coco Loco)

                After walking down in the dark, talking the whole way of course, we went to Coco Loco where the school band was performing.  The music was wonderful, the trio Schirin (Austria) Misha (Russia) and Dino (BiH) performed an amazing selection of music, and everybody was singing along, clapping, dancing, all of us swaying with our arms wrapped around each other.  Smiling faces of many friends, Shaked, Anita, Dorontine, Verena, Simone, Mirwais, Nicolai, Anja, Masha, Yuli, Dani and so many others.  It was the best party, quality fun, and a wonderful atmosphere.  Encore!       
               
                This morning the final general assembly debates, resolution voting, and closing ceremony for the MostMUN conference occurred.  MUN is an abbreviate for Model United Nations, an international program that simulates United Nation delegate meetings.  Since Friday, over sixty students from UWCiM and schools throughout BiH, Turkey, and the UK, have been debating resolutions within four separate councils as representatives of countries from all over the world.  I was in the Historical Council (not actually existent in the UN) as a representative of the Russian Federation and the USSR (depending on the date.)  We discussed two situations and created several  interesting resolutions:
                Insitutionalized Racism in South Africa under the system of Apartheid
                The Situation in Bosnia and Herzegovina 1993 
As well as in the other councils:
                Security Council
                                Piracy Off of Somalia’s Coast
                                Regulations on a Nuclear Free World  and the creation of  Nuclear Free Zone in the US
                Environmental Council
                                Protection of the Global Climate for Present and Future Generations
                                Global Plan to Solve the Issue of Water Shortages
                Human Rights Council
                                Combating Defamation of Religion
                                Promotion and Protection of Freedom of Speech in China                

On Friday evening our school hosted the annual traditional Global Vision contest.  Here in Europe there is a competition similar to American Idol called Euro Vision – where delegates, one from each European country, compete for the title of the best singer throughout Europe.  Our school modified the concept a bit, to include candidates from all around the world.
Representing the country of Austria I performed a medley from the Sound of Music with Leah, Isa Belle, Shaked, Schirin, Rikka, Laura, Michelle, and Ardi.  We had a lot of fun putting together the choreography, and singing along to all the classic songs – “Rain drops on roses and whiskers on kittens, A few of my favorite things, Yodel-le-yodel-loo, I am 16 going on 17, Do-Ray-Mi, the hills are alive with the sound of music, and finally So long farewell, Auf Wiedersehen, good night.”  I was the part of Gretel (of course) and it was really fun.  Some other acts included Amitai, Selmir, and Miran representing Sweden who won, Clement singing “My African Queen”, Mirwais, Nicolai, and Niv doing a medley of music ending with “Don’t Worry Be Happy” and wishing all of us first years good luck with the upcoming months of hard work doing IAs, EEs, and ToK.  To translate from IB language – IAs are Internal Assessments, EEs are Extended Essays, and ToK is theory of Knowledge presentations and essays.  Whoo sounds like a lot of fun right? J
These next few months are going to be filled with a lot of hard work, many decisions and opportunities are riding on the results of my predicted grades and the quickly approaching exams and SATs.  But I’m ready, work hard, play hard.  I just need to hone my focus, but still enjoy balance and all the friends and new family that I am lucky to have here.  One of Shaked’s crazy metaphors really applies: when hiking on a trail it is necessary to look down quite a bit so that you don’t trip, and so that you follow the right path, but it is also good to look towards the horizon, towards your goal, because the mountain is waiting looming ahead.  And if your shoe gets untied, or life throws you a challenge, stop and take the time to tie it, so it doesn’t trip you up in the future.
Now, we have two more days of school, then Shaked and I are leaving for Easter Break!  It’s a SURPRISE!  And we are incredibly excited!
And, maybe something semi-important to add, I turned 18 years old last Wednesday, the 24th of March, 2010.  I am a legal adult – wow.  But that is a whole other blog entry.  For my birthday I collected advice from everybody for the next years of my life, and it resulted in some interesting and pleasant results.

A shout out to all those Portlanders finishing up their Spring Breaks and heading back to school, I send my love to you!

Good Night!          

Friday, March 19, 2010

Balkan Sunflowers - The End of the Week

     Wow, it has been an amazing and full week, with a little flavor of life here in Kosovo, lots of children and laughter, pounding nails, eating delicious, food, cooking, communicating (or trying to) in five or more different languages, learning a lot about the work being done here, and learning more about myself.  I would say that I feel privileged to work with Andy, Dorontine, Amer, and Dani from UWCiM, Martin, a student teacher from Germany, and all the people at Fushekosovo.  We were especially honored my Mohamet and his family by hosting us, accepting us into their home, feeding us, and allowing us to work alongside them in the center.
     This evening was a wonderful way to wrap up the week - our team took the initiative to cook dinner for our family, after a long days work.  Martin bought some ingredients - but we were not quite sure how everything would turn out.  The menu was spiced baked chicken a la Andy (with some guidance), pasta salad (American and German style) prepared by Martin, Amer, and myself, appetizers by Dorontine and I, and chocolate chip cookies by your very own.  There were thirteen people total, all crowded around two small tables on couches and stools.  It was cozy and nice, and Dorontine and I dominated the kitchen and took responsibility for all the cleaning - since they haven't allowed us to do anything all week out of pure hospitality.  I'm really proud.
     Before we returned home the staff at the center hosted a party for us with some snacks, drinks, nice music and taught us one traditional group dance.  They are all very sweet people, and I enjoyed working with them this week - even though the language barrier restricted some communication smiles, translations, and simply working together is its own language.  After the party everybody came to inaugurate the shed that we built (which is basically finished).

Now we will sleep, in the morning Amer's father will come to pick us up and drive us back to Rozaje, from where we will take a cab back to Sarajevo then catch the evening train back home to Mostar, retracing our path from last Sunday.  I'll write more and post just a few of the many photos later!  Safe journeys to everybody returning to Mostar!

Saturday, March 13, 2010

Balkan Sunflowers


   Each year at all the UWC schools students participate in project weeks, where we are given a week off of school to arrange a project doing social service, investigating historical events, analyzing economic situations, doing sports activities, discovering cultures, and many other creative ideas.
    This year I chose to go to the new country of Kosovo to work in a school as part of a program named  Balkan Sunflowers.  The learning center that we will be working at is located just outside of the capital Prishtina.  Our group is seven members strong including Andy Hemphill (USA), Benedikt Gottwald (Deutschland), Dorontine Berishaj and Amer Bralic (Montenegro), Dani Ramajo Falcon (Spain) and our mentor Martin from Germany.
   This grassroots organization was first created in 1999 during the Kosovar war to aid refugees and Roma people.  There are two major projects, the Learning Centers Network and Great Films that Change Our World.  Their three primary areas of focus are the community, human dignity, and children and youth.
     While we are there we will be living with host families and working at a learning center during the day.  We will be leading workshops for the kids at the learning center between the ages of 5 to 18.  We organized science demonstrations, musical workshops, environmental education, artwork, geography, sports, and other ways of interacting with the kids.  Also, during the day we will help to cook and serve hot meals for the children, and we will be working on several building projects for the school.
    Some other students from our school are doing amazing trips as well - a group of people left last night for Istanbul to research religious minorities, two groups are going to Wien (Vienna) to research Balkan immigrants there, and to experience the culture.  There are also people going to Slovenia, Belgrade, Croatia and Sarajevo.  I'm really proud of all the student initiative that made these projects into reality.    

Sunday, March 7, 2010

Edelweiss

I had a lovely evening today.  First, we had the Balkan Cultural dinner, which was a great array of presentations and delicious food.  The students were representing Kosovo, Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Croatia.  We had a very talented folk singer sing some local songs, watched a traditional dance, and of course ate delicious food.  With a stomach satisfied with baklava, and many deserts and meat dishes.  Shaked and I made our way back to Musala after a short stop in Old Man's Cafe and Coco Loco.  It was a long day, we woke up early to greet two exchange students who arrived from UWC Adriatic this morning by bus.  Allie from Canada, and Emilian from Poland are switching spots with two of our students, Ardi from Kosovo and Kristina from BiH for a week.  During the afternoon I worked planning culture week events, making videos, and a moderator meeting about Pruture (Present Future) Day on the stage.

When Shaked and I finally arrived back in Musala we curled up with a bunch of lovely ladies and watched The Sound of Music.  It was the perfect movie to cheer us up, and make us smile.  Thank you to Leah, Isabelle, Michelle, Laura, Schirin, Shaked, Rikka, and Verena for the nice time together.

I dedicate the song "Sixteen Going on Seventeen" to Shaked, because she won't be sixteen for much longer, and I am turning 18 soon!  And of course my two favorite songs are...well, I really do love all of them, but "My Favorite Things" and "Edelweiss".

Edelweiss, Edelweiss
Every morning you greet me
Small and white, clean and bright
You look happy to meet me

Blossom of snow may you bloom and grow
Bloom and grow forever

Edelweiss, Edelweiss
Bless my homeland forever.


Climb ev'ry mountain
Search high and low
Follow ev'ry by-way
Every path you know

Climb ev'ry mountain
Ford ev'ry stream
Follow ev'ry rainbow
'Till you find your dream

A dream that will need
All the love you can give
Everyday of your life
For as long as you live


I have some really soothing memories of my Dad playing this song on the guitar in the living room mixed in with John Denver some evenings as I was falling asleep.  Those nights I would definitely fall asleep with a smile on my face.

Good Night to all of you around the world.  May you remember your favorite things in the good times and bad, and cherish all that you have around you.

Monday, March 1, 2010

Diva Grabavica




Breathe in.  Breathe out.  Breathe in.  Breath out.  The wind roaring and rushing through the mountains, and rustling the leaves on the ground, the barren trees leave the slopes exposed.  It is a beautiful and quiet place, the only human noises come from the tramping of five pairs of boots, the breathing from our mouths as we zig-zag up the trail, and I can feel my heartbeat pounding in my temples and my chest.


















First signs of spring!